Day 52: through the desert

From Blythe I rode south at first through more fields but soon the desert began to show. After a while there were mounds of dark rock and the road narrowed and the dips got deeper and steeper. It was like a rollercoaster, slow up, fast down, over and over. This gave way to dunes, pure sand dunes. I rode through 7 miles of dunes. On one side, heavy use by ohvs on the other side unspoiled Imperial Dunes National Park. After a few more miles of desert the farms were back. The town of Brawley invited me to pitch my tent in some nice grass by their public pool. While there a local invited me to come eat food at their house. I ate thanksgiving leftovers and we talked. Now I'm back in my tent tired from 90 plus miles of riding.

Day 51: palm trees and farm fields

After a long day riding I've reached my last state. Last night it didn't get very cold, the climate here is about perfect this time of year. The ride out was nice because it was a slight slope back down most of the day. But the traffic was terrible because it was the end of the holiday weekend. With lots of traffic I feel like it's a race and I'm in last place, being passed by everyone. I rode part of the day on the freeway, part on a small desert road. After 90 miles I crossed the Colorado river into Blythe, California and everything changed. There were crops, it was green, palm trees all over and homeless people everywhere. Seriously I don't know why but I saw at least 8 or 9 in this little town, so it seemed camping was a bad idea. I got a hotel. I'm getting close to the end.

Day 50: back on the road

After a tasty breakfast with my hosts I followed the canal out of Phoenix. From the edge of town it's a gradual climb to Wickenburg. It was just over 50 miles so after lunch and a break I decided to shoot for the next town, Aguila. It turned out to be a nice little town with a new library, a nice park (with green grass), a gas station and a restaurant. All things I could use. After a cool drink from the gas station I cleaned up at the library then ate stake at the restaurant and pitched my tent at the park. As I lay in my tent I can hear Mexican music playing, it's festive, but I'm tired. Tomorrow I'll try to reach the state line.

8th day off

I guess I'm in no big rush and there are some supplies I should get so I'm staying an extra day in the city.

Day 49: Phoenix for Thanksgiving

From Globe west there's an hour climb followed by a day of downhill. After the climb the first descent is Devils's canyon. It's steep it winds, the walls are jagged rock and there's no shoulder to ride one. It was really an incredible ride. Toward the end there's a quarter mile tunnel, a few turns, a bridge then your in the town of Superior. A very dramatic entrance to the town. From superior it's a long slow hill down to the desert. The landscape is dominated by cactus including the iconic saguaro cactus. Phoenix is a wide sprawling city, once I got in I had arrangements to meet my host who would pick me up in his truck to bring me to his shower then a thanksgiving party. This worked out great, I pedaled 60 miles that morning they drove me about 25. The party was lots of fun, I ate till full, played games, took pictures then ate more food. Now I can sleep well tonight.

Day 48: into the canyon

I camped last night at the top of a mountain. I started this cold morning with a long descent, no pedaling necessary, almost 3000 feet to the bottom of salt water canyon. I had trouble keeping my fingers warm and for the first time I hoped for an uphill climb to warm me up. It was a spectacular ride and I soon forgot how cold I was. The canyon gives an incredible sense of space when you can see the your road out on the other side wind up like a string wrapped around the canyon wall. Soon enough I was over there slowly climbing up. It wasn't too steep and the road surface was great so it was a pleasant climb. After a few hours climbing out the road again tilts down for a steep descent into Tonto National Forest. Then climb again and scoot down into Globe. By now the wind had picked up and I had climed close to a mile vertical. So as luck would have it a warm shower, though not home, hosted me in his pool room (his friend/associate let me in). Sheltered from the wind, perched above the scatter of traffic winding below I will rest and recover so I can descend into Phoenix tomorrow.

Day 47: forests and volcanos

After fixing another flat, I headed out into the cold icy morning. I warmed up quickly because I had to climb my way out of Springerville. The view of the early sun shining through the cold mist lifting from town was worth the climb. Between there and Show Low there were rolling hills with extinct volcanos pushing through here and there. After picking extra supplies from Show Low I headed into the Apache Indian Reservation. From Show Low and into the Res is pine forest, mostly all ponderosa pine. From this point the road meets several canyons, they cross and parallel the road, then the road drops into one and follows it around a corner, quite a ride. After 80 miles I pick a good spot off the road and set up camp. Tomorrow I know there is a big canyon to climb out of, it should be tough and I need to rest.

Day 46: goodbye New Mexico

With plenty of pie in my stomach I headed out at first light. From Pietown it's mostly downhill to the next town. It was a bit cloudy but the worse seemed to have passed. I was making good time, so I stopped for my second breakfast. I met an interesting couple there who just bought land in Pietown. We talked and they picked up my breakfast, so many generous people. As we walked out the sky had again turned grey. By the time I had made it to the top of the first pass it was snowing, big heavy flakes. It didn't last long, but it went on and off throughout the day. Riding today was hard but I finally crossed the state line into Arizona and I decided to splurge on a hotel to dry out and rest well. They say tomorrow will be a nice day, I hope so.

Day 45: the great divide

I left Socorro before the sun. The way out is a constant climb for 10 miles, then it opens to a high plane that slowly climbs to Magdalina. I stopped for a big second breakfast. From there it's a series of step hills up to another huge plane at 7000 foot elevation. The very large array radio telescope is on this plane. It was 30 miles or so of straight asphalt climb to Datil. After Datil the ride gets interesting as the road winds through rock faces and huge ponderosa pines. 20 miles further is Pie town. That's right, and they have the absolute best pie here. I had NM apple pie (with chilies and pine nuts), black berry peach, lemon meringue, sweet potato pie and I've got pecan oat pie for breakfast. The pie-a-neer people are really interesting and friendly, and they showed me to the Toaster house, a hostel for hikers and cyclists. I got a nice fire going now to keep me warm tonight.

7th day off

My host was nice enough to have me stay another day, so I took today off to rest in Socorro before my big ride tomorrow. I'll do the usual; eat, read, study maps and talk.

Day 44: another day another flat

Nice coffee shop in town made my breakfast this morning, and they packed me a sandwich for lunch. Between here and my next stop there won't be any places to eat. I rode out a little late, but it was a nice cool calm morning. Not far down the road I got my second flat. No choice but to unload my bike and fix it on the roadside. Continuing the ride I saw mountians, pueblo ruins, cranes ending their migration and lots of freeway. In Soccoro I stayed with a really awesome warm shower who fed me and did a total bike tune up for me. After a long day I'll sleep like a rock.

Day 43: back to reality

I was greeted this morning with a flat tire. I hadn't noticed until I started packing my bike. A little delay, fix it and continue. The morning was cool but not cold. The sun was out as I left. This new road was nice; no traffic, rolling hills. But today the wind was back in my face. It wasn't too bad until after lunch. I had a great Navaho taco at the Willard cafe and while I did the wind picked up speed. It was only 10 miles to Mountianair, my destination, but it took me over an hour with the wind. When I finally arrived I met the town clerk who was expecting me. Long story, but my mom had called and talked to her. She pointed out the spots in town then opened the community center for me to sleep in. No kitchen, but it's not bad.

Day 42: with the wind

When you are riding with a tail wind everything becomes calm. Today again I rode with the wind on my back. I woke up to a half frozen bottle of water, it got cold last night. I rode out on a frontage road then back on the interstate for 17 miles to come to Santa Rosa, from there south east to Vaughn were I ate and did laundry. Then to the small town of Encino 15 miles down highway 60. There was no restaurant or gas station, again all that was open was the post office. I enquired about where I could stay, the park. I rode around more to check out the town and was lucky to see someone by city hall. She invited me to stay in the cafeteria (old elementary school). And feel free to use the kitchen and eat whatever you want. Sure beats the park.

Day 41: this is nice

As I pedal out of Nara Visa a slight breeze is coming from the North East, it makes for easy riding. The morning is cool, not cold. It didn't freeze last night. I stop in Logan after 23 miles for a second breakfast. It's a nice little truckstop and the owner pays for me. From there to Tucumcari, where I'll get on the interstate. I have no choice since there's no other road to take. Bikes are allowed on the shoulder. Because of the tail wind it goes by quickly, just 10 miles and then there are frontage roads to take, it's old route 66. Tonight I'll set my tent up in a field by a small gas station. It should be cold. I rode 87 miles today and I'll sleep well.

Day 40: and New Mexico

It was a great calm morning. I was able to head out just as the sun was peeking up over the horizon. This road I've been on (highway 54) parallels a set of train tracks. It's the only route that cuts southwest so it's loaded with semis. There are towns every 10 miles through Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas. But from Dalhart TX there's a sign; next services 75 miles. After riding all day (over 80miles) I was still 23 miles short of this. I ended up in Nara Visa, lots of boarded-up buildings. Just the postoffice is open, and lucky for me this is where I met Vernon. I helped him and his son with some truck problems (just watched really) then they took me in and fed me, and gave me a spare bedroom to stay in. Nice people. Tomorrow I'll be on mountain time.

6th day off

The wind didn't let up all night. This morning was just as windy as it was when I quit biking yesterday. I won't bike today. Since it's Sunday I went to church. I met some cyclists there who had already been talking about me that morning. One of them let me wash up and hang out at his house that afternoon (after a teacher I met bought me lunch). We got to exchange stories and bike insight. Tonight I'll crash on his couch. Hope it's not windy tomorrow.

Day 39: Texas

There was a strong headwind today that just got stronger as the day went on, I couldn't make it very far before the wind was too much to handle. Just 20 miles into Texas I'm stranded in Stratford. Not much to do here, just made some phone calls and sat around. Tonight after setting up camp in the park some locals brought me some great BBQ (after I already ate) so now I'm extremely full. And I learned what calf fries are. Hope it's not so windy tomorrow.

Day 38: OK

Today was a beautiful day; warm, sunny and no wind. I rode leisurely today. I stopped for a second breakfast of blueberry pancakes. I took a long lunch break. I even went off my course to pick up some things from walmart. And I rode all day, out of windy Kansas and into calm Oklahoma (at least on this day). I ended up in the little sleepy town of Goodwell. It is just big enough to have laundry, so I did that and checked out places to put my tent. Turns out there's a university campus there too. I met some students at the corner store and was invited to check out the Art department. Hanging out in the art lounge I got to talk to some interesting people, and now I'm spending the night on the couch. I hear it will be windy tomorrow.

Day 37: I hate Kansas wind

Once again it was cold, it didn't warm up till after noon. And it was windy, straight from the west, all I could hear all day was wind blowing in my ears. Days like this you have to ride like a machine, just put your head down and pedal hard. Anyway I wasn't able to reach my destination, I rode just over 60 miles to Kismet. Tonight I'll sleep in the park, but it shouldn't get as cold tonight. Tomorrow I'll be heading south, I'm just 20 miles from the Oklahoma border.

Day 36: Kansas hills

This morning was cold and breezy, but clear and dry. After a 10 mile ride to Medicine Lodge I rode 40 miles through the gypsum hills and red hills. The landscape was interesting and the road followed the contours of these hills, a nice change from the flat. After a late lunch in a Coldwater pub I rode on. The hills continued, and I rode to Ashland. At 85 miles it was a much longer ride then normal. In Ashland someone suggest I ask about the "Isaiah House" to stay for the night. It was a strange mixup when I did. Apparently it's for people with problems and automatically when I asked about it he assumed that's why I was asking. Long story short, after about 20 minutes he realized what I was doing and started talking to me like an adult. So it turned out ok. I slept in a clean warm place.

5th day off

Because of a forecast for more rain, high wind and cold as well as the offer to let me stay longer I decided to stay here in Sharon for another night. Today I spent most of my day at the store were I talked with locals and I helped my host move and organize some in the store's back room. Had some good food while I was there too. I also got to the library to plan more of my route through New Mexico. I'll be ready to leave at daylight tomorrow.

Day 35: need rain

Had a nice rest and got out on the road (with snacks from my host) before the rain. It was foggy most of the morning, rain was light and I had a northeast wind helping me get to my lunch destination Anthony. I met a couple there at a coffee shop who had biked across Kansas earlier that year to raise money for cancer treatments. They loaded me up with some leftover granola bars from their trip. I ate lunch at the Anthony cafe and left. From there I had to head north to battle the wind for 6 miles before turning west again, but by that time the wind had shifted and was just crossing me. About 10 miles further and I hit a thunderstorm. The sky darkened, it poured rain and the wind picked up. I saw an abandoned house, the gate was open so I went in. Inside I found a letter postmarked 1954. I read it, it was just uninteresting gossip. The rain had died down so I left the house. Now the wind was so strong I struggled to bike the next 8 miles to come to a town. Lucky for me this town has some great people who put me in someone's extra house for the night, they even have a sauna I can use. It rained hard today but it's so dry here they need all the rain they can get. There may be more tomorrow.

Day 34: aftershock

Last night as I was falling asleep in my tent I felt the ground roll under me. I wasn't sure what I felt or if I imagined it. Today it's all I hear from everyone is about the earthquake in Oklahoma and how it shook their house. Anyway today turned out to be a beautiful day, besides a bit of wind. It turns out Kansas isn't completely flat, but has some wide rolling hills that I spent most of my morning riding. I ended up in Wellington, it's just 30 miles south of Wichita. There's a warm shower here and I was able to wash up here, eat dinner with them and sleep in their home. Tomorrow it will rain.

Day 33: Kansas wind

I woke up late today and had a few problems (lost my spoon) that walmart fixed (breakfast), but i didnt get on the road till 10. High winds today, 20-30 with gusts up to 40. It was from the south southeast. For my first 15 miles I went southwest, it wasn't direct, but I had to fight it. Things got better when I turned straight west. Still I spent most of my day concentrating on going in a straight line. After pedaling just 55 miles I'm staying in a nice city park in cedar vale. Hope the wind dies as forecasted.

Day 32: riding the flat

Got out of town early today and it was a great day to ride. Things have gotten pretty flat here in Kansas, but that's not to say it's a bore. Just going fast is fun. The hawks are fun to ride with too and there's one in about every field. Anyway I rode 77 miles to Independence, couldn't find anything good in town so I found some nice shelter outside town to pitch my tent. As long as I don't get a headwind I should be able to fly through Kansas.

4th day off

I'm staying in Pittsburg for my day off. I need to goto the library to plan my route from here. The TransAm goes a little north, I want to head south. Also I got a slow leak in my back tube I need to patch (first flat). And while I'm at it I'll rotate my front and back tires. The back has a ton of wear, while the front has almost none. Plus the weather is supposed to be windy and cold.

Day 31: Kansas

Woke up today to find my phone charger and extra battery stolen. In the night I heard the thief and sprung out of my tent. As I did he ran away. Anyway I can buy a new one, nothing else was gone. It was a good ride this morning to Golden City. The sun was shining and a strong wind was blowing straight from the south, it made riding a straight line tough, but didn't slow me down. Things really flattened out 20 miles into the ride. 4 miles out of Golden City I had to turn north, and this was pure cycling bliss. I rode the wind in and didn't fall below 22 miles per hour. Lunch was great, then after noon the wind shifted slightly to the west. It was just enough to push me. All afternoon I fought to go above 10mph. Just when I hit the Kansas boarder I also crossed into the cold front, it rained a bit, but the winds calmed down. It's going to be cold and wet tonight, so I sprung for a hotel. Maybe tomorrow I'll just ride half a day.

Day 30: wind wind wind

Cold morning, so I got on the road early today. Riding early is nice because it's calm, by noon the wind usually starts to blow in my face. However today the wind started early, but from the south. So I rode all day with no headwind. By 3:20 I arrived at my destination, Walnut Grove, but this town had nothing to offer and unfriendly people. Ash Grove was just 8 miles... South but I still felt fresh. So I battled the powerful headwinds and steep hills to stay in a much better community tonight. Today I rode 77 miles. Should be a bit warmer sleeping in my tent tonight.

Day 29: not flat yet

I woke up this morning and had to brush the frost off my tent. The nice thing about the cold is that it wakes me up early, I was up by 5:30. I rode from Summersville to Hartville about 65 hilly miles. I met two eastbound riders, one from Japan and later an American woman. The Japanese guy left the west on the same day I left, he's going to New York, so I guess he's half way. Hartville is a nice little town with a good diner, grocery store and laundromat all within walking distance from where they have the cyclists camp. Today is Halloween and I'm surprised to see kids out after dark tricker treating. Just like the old days.